EXOSOMES: NEW-GENERATION COSMETIC ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
WHAT ARE EXOSOMES AND WHY ARE THEY SUCH A HOT TOPIC?
It is precisely this characteristic that has attracted the attention of researchers: exosomes are not passive containers, but can play a role in modulating various cellular processes.
In aesthetic medicine and cosmetics, the use of exosomal active ingredients – that is, plant-derived exosomes – is becoming increasingly widespread.
NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL EXOSOMES
Natural exosomes are produced physiologically by cells. Their composition depends on the cell of origin and its biological state; to date, plant-derived exosomes are the most widely researched.
Unlike traditional plant extracts, exosome-derived active ingredients from plants such as Centella asiatica, Curcuma longa, apple and many others are characterised by rigorous testing which, on the one hand, confirms the presence and number of these nanovesicles and, on the other, details the specific nature of the substances they carry – proteins, peptides, amino acids, growth factors, microRNAs, AHAs – and, consequently, their associated cosmetic functions.
Alongside natural exosomes, specialised research in nanobiotechnology is developing specifically designed artificial exosomes intended to overcome any limitations of natural ones, such as difficulty in obtaining them and high costs, by creating targeted treatments to replicate some of the functional characteristics of natural exosomes.
EXOSOMES: TREASURE CHESTS OF ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
We can think of them as tiny “biological treasure chests”: they may contain molecules that help to convey a message from one cell to another.
This characteristic also opens up interesting prospects for cosmetology.
A vesicular system can, in fact, help to:
- protect its contents from the external environment
- facilitate the transport of specific molecules
- facilitate interaction with target cells
- modulate the availability of the transported content.
Equally interesting is the range of cosmetic functions associated with the type of plant cells used – protective, brightening, moisturising, antioxidant and anti-ageing – for skincare treatments and also – strengthening, anti-thinning – in the field of trichology.
MICRONEEDLING + EXOSOMES TECHNOLOGY
This has given rise to interest in the combination of microneedling and vesicular systems.
The idea is to combine two levels of technology:
- Micro-Needling Technology → utilising natural microscopic structures known as spicules to create micro-channels in the skin, thereby increasing the penetration of active ingredients.
- EXOSOMES → convey biologically relevant signals and molecules
MICRO SHOT COSMECEUTICAL
MICRO SHOT is an intensive, dual-action treatment with a smoothing effect, specifically designed for established wrinkles on the face and around the eyes. It has been developed to act deeply on the structural causes of wrinkles.
When used regularly, it improves skin firmness, reduces the depth of expression lines and visibly smooths the skin.
EXOSOMES AND EPIGENETIC REACTIVATION
Another term frequently associated with the subject of exosomes is epigenetics.
Epigenetics is a branch of biology that studies the complex interactions between the genome and the environment, which lead to visible effects such as the signs of ageing. As we age, epigenetic mechanisms become dysfunctional, leading to a progressive alteration in cellular function and the skin’s regenerative capacity, resulting in reduced cell turnover, a loss of epidermal thickness, and decreased production of collagen and elastin.
In this context, certain components carried by exosomes – particularly polyphenols, peptides, growth factors and microRNAs (miRNAs) – are of particular interest in relation to epigenetic mechanisms.
Certain peptides, for example, have the ability to activate sirtuins (SIRT), commonly known as ‘youth proteins’ – a family of proteins that act as longevity enzymes, epigenetically regulating the production of dermal components – collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid – and are therefore effective anti-ageing agents.
The combination of exosomes and exosomal components with an epigenetic mechanism therefore results in cosmetic treatments that support and promote physiological repair and defence processes, benefiting the skin and hair.
DEFENCE ANAGENIX-K HAIR LOSS LOTION
Among the most innovative approaches to hair loss treatment, the possibility of acting on the dermal papilla stands out; this is a fundamental structure which, as well as nourishing the hair, regulates its growth phases and supports its renewal.
The stem cell-derived active ingredient from Curcuma longa is characterised by an exosomal component that reactivates the dermal papilla via two epigenetic regulators of the hair cycle – miRNA-22 and miRNA-31 – proving effective in combating thinning and supporting physiological hair growth.
